CVC180401274.PFR0926
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Condition A: Vintage-Preowned, CHANEL Circa 1983-1984 By Karl Lagerfeld. Archival Iconic Fashion Piece from 1983-1984, an absolutely stunning conversational piece from a private collection. They don’t make bags like this one anymore! This amazing vintage bag was first designed by Coco Chanel in February 1955 and the 2.55 refers specifically to Coco Chanel’s original design with the Mademoiselle Lock, Mademoiselle chain strap with the burgundy red grosgrain fabric lining. The Mademoiselle Lock got its name from the fact that Coco Chanel Mademoiselle never married. In 1983 when Karl Lagerfeld joined CHANEL House in Rue Cambon in Paris, he designed the Iconic CC logo turn-lock and started to add the CC logo turn-lock to the 2.55 bag designed by Mademoiselle Chanel. This outstanding and ultra rare Mademoiselle jersey fabric Chanel handbag was one of the first bag that Karl Lagerfeld designed with the CC logo turn-lock upon his arrival at CHANEL. This is a highly desirable, archival investment piece from Karl Lagerfeld’s early tenure and heritage. In excellent vintage condition, exterior jersey fabric and the 24 k gold tone hardware and the interior burgundy-red grosgrain fabric lining is in excellent condition with a tiny black mark. Signed CHANEL, interior zipper (Spidex, made in Germany – read more about it below), snap fastener RG (Raymond & Guttin, made in France, Grenoble), stamped 24k gold plated CC logo turn-lock. This is a very early bag, therefore no serial sticker code and no authenticity card yet – early serial sticker code with 6 digits-number starting with 1XXXXX started in 1984. Delivered with its original off-white cotton CHANEL dust-bag, a box and with our Certificate of Authenticity.
View more vintage luxury CHANEL, HERMÈS, CHRISTIAN DIOR handbags.
Brand: CHANEL
Artistic Designer: KARL LAGERFELD
Collection: Ready-To-Wear Collection 1983-1984
Type of Product: Vintage classic jersey and grosgrain fabric bag
Size: 25.5 cm x 15.50 cm x 5.50 cm – Double shoulder strap 14 cm – Single 31.50 cm
Material: Jersey and grosgrain fabric, 24k gold plated hardware
Place of Origin: Made in France
Date of manufacture: 1983-1984
Colour: Black-Red – Gold tone hardware
Return: This sale is final and not eligible for return unless otherwise stated in this description. Customs duties & tax charges are the buyer’s responsibility and not including on the shipping fees – Read our Returns & Refunds Conditions
Our Vintage Selection: You can buy from Chelsea Vintage Couture with total confidence on our website and or by Private Appointments — available in our showroom in Chelsea, London SW3. All of the items that we are selling are original and authentic with known provenance. Each piece is examined and verified, carefully inspected before listing. We specialise in rare and unique pieces from private collections and discerning individual owners. Should you choose to buy from Chelsea Vintage Couture you can be assured that we are describing each and every item in a fully transparent and detailed manner. Please note we do not list any items with photoshopped / re-touched images. Should you need more photos or video before buying, please contact us.
Delivery/Shiping: All shipping are fully insured with signature required. Free collection in Chelsea, London – FREE DELIVERY in the UK for some goods qualify for FREE Standard Delivery – we ship immediately in the UK by overnight delivery. Shipping worldwide the following day after 2pm, the delivery will take 2 to 7 days depending on where you are located abroad – Customs duties & tax charges are the buyer’s responsibility not including in our listing price and shipping fees.
Read our detailed expert description
An outstanding Archival piece, ultra rare CHANEL Mademoiselle black jersey diamond quilted bag with mademoiselle shoulder chain strap and with the first CC logo 24k gold plated turn-lock designed by Karl Lagerfeld in 1983. It is a double flap, stunning 24k gold hardware mademoiselle double shoulder chain strap and with the iconic CC logo stamped turn-lock. Handcrafted from the classic timeless black jersey fabric and with the grosgrain burgundy fabric introduced by Coco Chanel. There is an half moon slit pocket at rear, the interior is lined with the iconic red, burgundy grosgrain fabric, one zipper pocket with the vintage SPIDEX zipper (made in Germany), RG snap fastener from Raymond & Guttin (France, Grenoble), two slit pockets. It is a double shoulder flap bag and it can be worn as a single strap cross-body. A “Must-Have” don’t miss this Archival piece, it is a truly exceptional ultra rare, collector, Mademoiselle black jersey 2.55 Chanel handbag in your wardrobe for everyday wear!
The Story Behind: KARL LAGERFELD began his career in fashion in the 1950s, working for several top fashion houses in France including Balmain, Patou and Chloé before joining Chanel in 1983. From 1983 until his death in 19 February 2019 (aged 85) he remained the key designer for Chanel. When Karl Lagerfeld was hired, Chanel was considered a “near-dead brand” at the time since the death of designer Coco Chanel in 1971. Karl Lagerfeld took over the couture collection in 1983 and brought life back into CHANEL, making it a huge success by revamping its ready-to-wear fashion line. Karl Lagerfeld integrated the interlocked CC monogram from the initials of Coco Chanel into a style pattern for the House of Chanel for ever.
In 1983-1984, Karl Lagerfeld introduced the CC lock, transitioning from the original 2.55 “Mademoiselle” lock. He modernised Chanel by introducing modern elements to the classic iconic quilted bags by adding his own design the iconic interlaced leather-chain and the interlocking (twist lock) the double CC locks during the 1984 Fall/Winter Ready-to-Wear Fashion shows in Paris. While black and beige were staples, red was embraced as a signature colour representing passion.
1984–1986: The First Serial Stickers — 6-Digit Number
Chanel began using serial numbers in 1984 as part of a broader effort to combat counterfeiting. These early stickers featured a 6-digit serial number starting with the number 1 (1XXXXX), printed on a white sticker with black number and placed under a clear adhesive. Chanel bags with a 6-digit serial numbers were produced early in the brand’s serialisation, specifically between 1984 and 1986. These vintage bags with 6-digit often feature a white sticker covered by a protective film are very rare to find.
SPIDEX Zipper: Spidex zippers are vintage brass slide fasteners from the mid-to-late 20th century, notably distributed in Europe by the German firm Val. Mehler AG. The SPIDEX zipper was used on vintage luxury items from the 1970s and 1980s. They have also occasionally been documented on vintage luxury accessories and bags from that period alongside with other classic European zipper makers like Eclair. During this period Chanel was using zipper from Lampo, Eclair, YKK, and DMC and Spidex zippers were occasionally used on specific and very rare vintage Chanel pieces (especially on interior pockets and rare 1970s/1980s).
RG Snap Fastener Button and RG Flox: Albert-Pierre Raymond and Alexandre Guttin (France, Grenoble)
In 1868 Albert-Pierre Raymond and Alexandre Guttin came together to create something extraordinary. Albert-Pierre, a skilled mechanic and Alexandre, a talented gilder, combined their talents and inventiveness to bring the RG snap fastener button to life. RG represents the last names of Raymond and Guttin. In late 19th century they revolutionise the way we fasten our clothes? Soon they become a well-known name in the fashion industry. Chanel used RG and RG Flox fastener on their vintage bags and clothes.
